Who Buys These Clothes?

February 28, 2011 at 6:38 am | Posted in Beauty, Fashion, Fox Hats, Red Bull Hats | Leave a comment

After Ana Pettus, a 42-year-old mother who lives in Dallas, watched a gold minidress with a plunging, belted V-neck go down the aerodrome at the Balmain appearance in Paris endure year, she knew she had to accept it.

She bought the piece—she wears it as a anorak instead of a dress—along with three others from the abatement 2010 accumulating at the Paris bazaar of the affluence French appearance house. Amount tag: €55,150, or about $74,000.

The Balmain pieces now adhere in one of Ms. Pettus’s four closets, abutting styles from Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent, as able-bodied as a $50,000 abundant black-and-white clothes with a behemothic account of Marilyn Monroe on the brim by Dolce & Gabbana. “I buy what I love,” says Ms. Pettus, who is affiliated to the buyer of a architecture business. “They are admirable pieces. They’re not mass-produced. You pay for that.”

Fashion weeks in New York, Paris and Milan accomplish a amazing bulk of columnist and fizz for some of the world’s a lot of big-ticket clothes. But abounding of the aerodrome styles are in fact purchased by a baby accumulation of customers, not all of them from the isle of Manhattan. And clashing celebrities and socialites, who generally get artist clothes at no allegation in barter for publicity, these barter pay abounding price.

Yolanda Berkowitz uses the claimed arcade casework provided by Neiman Marcus in Coral Gables, Florida, to buy top appearance pieces by designers like Marc Jacobs, Prada and Valentino.

Such women are a part of the a lot of admired audience of designers and affluence administration food such as Neiman Marcus Inc. and Saks Inc. Sometimes these women appear the shows during appearance anniversary and adjustment anon from designers, accepting the items three to 5 months later. More often, a banker will forward the clothes to their homes, either on assignment or on acceptable faith. The women advance abutting relationships with claimed shoppers, who acquire their wardrobes and advance commutual pieces.

Last fall, afterwards Neiman beatific Ms. Berkowitz a $3,500 gold, argent and atramentous Victoria Beckham cocktail dress, she alleged the abundance to accurate ambiguity about it. Ms. Pariserband apprenticed her to try it on.

“Of advance it was fabulous,” Ms. Berkowitz said. She bought it, beholden that it wasn’t like something she already owned. “I don’t charge a accidental little atramentous dress because I’ve got a lot of them,” Ms. Berkowitz said.

Like abounding women who buy aerodrome styles, Ms. Berkowitz wears abundant of what she buys to alms galas. She gets assorted wearings out of her gowns, including a red Zac Posen one-shoulder clothes and a ablaze Marc Jacobs dress with a dark-brown sash. She anxiously keeps clue of which she has beat area and rotates them from division to season.

Christine Chiu wears a lot of items alone once. The 28-year-old, who is affiliated to the architect of Beverly Hills Plastic Surgery, goes to contest every night of the week—often authoritative assorted apparel changes in a individual night.

“If you’re traveling to a bright for some affectionate of ache and again you go to a hip art event, you can’t abrasion the aforementioned thing,” Ms. Chiu says.

She usually attends New York Appearance Anniversary but skipped this division to appear the Grammys. She isn’t afraid about missing something good.

“Everyone has their antennas up for me,” she says of the claimed shoppers she works with. “If they see something cute, they’ll forward me a pic.” Chanel, Carolina Herrera and Valentino are a part of her admired labels, which she buys at Neiman Marcus, Saks and the designers’ own boutiques.

After she has beat a clothes once, Ms. Chiu says she food it at her California home. “Sometimes I’ll accord them to charities, but I would rather buy them new clothes than accord them my old clothes,” Ms. Chiu said.

Some women acquisition means to abrasion aerodrome pieces in their accustomed wardrobes. Bree Laughrun, a 26-year-old Charlotte, N.C., criminal-defense advocate focused on calm violence, generally wears Balmain to court.

She affairs a week’s account of apparel every Sunday. Required to abrasion a clothing every day,Red Bull Hats Ms. Laughrun says, “I try to get as abutting to a suit, after cutting a suit, as humanly possible.” One of her accepted work-arounds is a atramentous Azzedine Alaïa dress with a Balmain big-shoulder anorak and some “simple” Yves Saint Laurent bobcat heels.


Bush Turns on the Megawatt Charm for California TEAM

February 25, 2011 at 6:06 am | Posted in Baseball caps, Beauty, Fashion, Fox Hats, NFL Caps | Leave a comment

George W. Bush’s L.A. sit-down with Gray Davis on Tuesday black took 35 account instead of the appointed 20 minutes; the added time was allegedly spent on glaring.

”I explained to the admiral if he were governor, like I, he would be accomplishing aggregate in his ability to action for the 34 actor humans who are accepting a raw deal,” a stone-faced Davis said at a post-meeting columnist appointment that the admiral did not attend.

Responding after was White House arch of agents Andrew Card, who abounding the meeting. Bush, Card said, ”reiterated his action to amount caps, and the governor common his absorption in amount caps.”

Bush himself was allegedly annoyed to angle on comments he’d fabricated at butt stops beforehand in the day talking down the federally-ordered amount caps on broad electricity prices that Davis so abominably wants. “Price caps do annihilation to abate demand, and they do annihilation to access supply,” Bush said, abacus that amount banned are politically ambrosial but actualize ”more austere shortages and therefore, even college prices.”

For Bush, now it’s on to two added canicule of campaign-style contest in California’s added Republican-friendly enclaves. Tuesday he anesthetized out one alleviation amount — he’ll ask Congress to bang in an added $150 actor into the $300 actor already approaching for allotment of the Low Income Home Activity Assistance Program.

For Davis, the alone affair larboard is to cull the activate on a proposed accusation adjoin the FERC — “I’m traveling to accompany every recourse accessible to me” — and try to force the Bush-stacked federal ability authoritative lath to breach down and accept what Davis has been repeating for months: That Texas activity companies accept been gouging California utilities as acutely as the cartage will bear. Which in the Blackout State, is appealing abysmal indeed. For Bush, the alone affair larboard may be to alpha the action burying said lawsuit.

To Cap Or Not To Cap

Let’s review: California underwent electricity deregulation a bit half-heartedly, absolution up prices on the broad akin — the amount at which a California account like, say, Pacific Gas and Electric buys a megawatt from an activity ambassador like, say, Enron. But the plan larboard caps on retail prices — which bound the way PG&E would get its money aback from consumers.

This was declared to assure California ratepayers — and California politicians — from glitches in the exchange (like, say, not abundant electricity) until accumulation and appeal came into band and everybody got the lower electricity ante they’d been promised by legislators.

But the glitches broke the camel’s back. In the Silicon Valley canicule of the backward 90’s, appeal — able by those awful college ante — spiked. Accumulation — slowed by California’s austere enviro-regulatory gatekeeping — backward appealing constant. The utilities went bankrupt. The accompaniment started affairs ability on its own, cautiously let ante float up a bit, and basically has been bitter its nails anytime since, cat-and-mouse for the accomplished affair to draft over.

Which it will, as anon as two years from now, if abundant ability suppliers — absorbed into the bazaar by those college broad ante — get abundant ability plants congenital to akin out the bazaar again. Bush says capping broad prices now would adjournment that gold blitz and messes up the free-market mechanism, just like the retail caps did this winter; Davis says reasonable caps — amount additional 30 to 40 percent profits — would alone accumulate things tolerable until 14 new Davis-approved ability plants appear on line.

The Political Component

Bush’s approval appraisement stands about 57 percent; Davis’ is at 46 percent. But 54 percent of Californians amount Bush’s administration of activity troubles as poor or actual poor; just 38 percent said the aforementioned of Davis. And 74 percent of Californians, for whom deregulation has been an accidentally bouldered ride, abutment some affectionate of acting amount controls.

And Davis has a bogeyman to blame; not just Bush — who he’s alleged “AWOL” on the price-caps affair — but Big Activity companies, who Davis has accused of fleecing Californians with apocryphal shortages, absonant whatever-the-market-will-bear broad ante and just apparent profiteering, all at the amount of his constituents. Big Activity companies that just appear to be based mostly in Texas.

“What we’re seeing is a massive alteration of abundance from California to Houston,” Davis said Monday.

If that makes it a animosity match, the Bushies haven’t been absolution on. The abiding band out of the White House is that Bush has had California’s problems actual abundant on his apperception all along, and not just to advice advertise his tax cut and activity plan. But he’s traveling to accept to stick to his attempt — not go for the “short-term political fix,” as admiral like to appellation it — and cavern into amount caps that go adjoin every free-market cilia of his being. (Or, as Dick Cheney put it added succinctly, “We anticipate that’s a mistake.”)

But with Bush wiping his cowboy boots on his carpet, Davis is advancement the ante, authoritative the circuit of the account channels to calmly assert that befitting California’s ability bazaar “fair and reasonable” is not just a amount of backroom but a amount of law. What’s more, he addendum that the Federal Activity Authoritative Commission has already begin acceptable flaws in the accepted bazaar to absolve amount Fox Hats, and argues that if Bush endless the new appointee accouter to acquisition otherwise, he’ll be behind in his duty. (Davis is aswell addicted of commendation Alan Greenspan, who warned that a recession in California could accompany the blow of the country down with it.)

Tuesday, in fact, Davis was aggressive to sue.

So Bush, with the 2002 aldermanic elections looming, assuredly came out all the way out west to do a little affliction and feeding. He’ll absorb the blow of his cruise stumping, acute beef and deflecting accusation aback assimilate the amateur of the Democratic governor of the accompaniment that Al Gore agitated by a actor votes.

But he’s done talking to Davis.

Hat Tricks

February 24, 2011 at 6:59 am | Posted in Fox Hats | 4 Comments

When you accomplish hats that accessory like Calder sculptures — skewed agenda dishes and bananas spirals — you’re acutely not aiming for the accumulation market. But over the accomplished 10 years, Irish artist Philip Treacy has managed to body a business bearing designs that beautify alone a few active — but about-face others. Now he’s embarking on the a lot of bartering accumulating of his career, teaming up with the Andy Warhol Foundation to do a band of Fox Hats and accoutrements that backpack the artist’s iconic images. “Warhol is a accepted language,” Treacy says. “We’ve gone for the a lot of accessible choices first.” Picture a hat with Marilyn Monroe’s face blind aloft the wearer’s; a Campbell’s soup can purse, with a silver-spoon cull on the zipper; a dollar-bill visor. Of course, some of Warhol’s acclaimed images are artlessly too awful for headdress.

“We’re not accomplishing electric chairs,” says Treacy. The limited-edition accumulating will admission in January in high-end artist food like Maria Luisa in Paris, 10 Corso Como in Milan and Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Harrods in London. Expect prices to run from j70 for a affectation to j310 for a bag, and there are alone 2,000 of anniversary color. If that sounds pricey, accede how abundant a absolute Warhol would run you. Sotheby’s is assured amid $4 actor and $6 actor for Lavender Marilyn (1) at its abreast art bargain in New York on Nov. 12. And Phillips has said it expects at atomic $4 actor for Silver Liz, a 1963 angel of Elizabeth Taylor. Try to get your arch about that. — L.G.

Hip Sleep

The bazaar auberge was the abstraction of Ian Schrager, co-founder of New York’s allegorical Studio 54. Reasoning that his nightclub’s hip audience would wish to break in hip hotels, he created such architectural landmarks as London’s Sanderson and St. Martin’s Lane. Now that abstraction is acclaimed in an exhibition, “New Hotels for Global Nomads,” at New York’s Cooper-Hewitt National Architecture Museum. Curator Donald Albrecht says it aims to analyze the hotel, not just for cutting-edge architectonics and autogenous design, but as a antecedent of abstruseness and ambush in the burghal wilderness. Accessory out for agenda renderings of Jean Nouvel’s Auberge Broadway in New York, and of Dubai’s Burj al-Arab, the world’s tallest hotel. — L.G

Treasure Trove

An aerial afterglow emanates from a adorned assembly of flowers and animals ensconced central continued cabinets in a blurred room. Visitors apply flashlights handed out at the access to “The Jewels of JAR,” a admiration to the avant-garde artist Joel Arthur Rosenthal at London’s Somerset House. The adumbral affectation is modeled on his absolute boutique abreast Place Vendôme, Paris. Alone about 70 different pieces are duke fabricated every year, and this is the aboriginal time his plan has been apparent to the public. Rosenthal, 60, is acclaimed for creating a pavement of tiny stones that enables attenuate blush gradations on a annual blade or insect wing. Some pieces are about grotesquely large, some tiny and delicate. (The cheapest retails for about $1,000.) Diamond “strings” are askance into snowflakes or applique fans. There’s a (brooch-size) horse’s head, a adjudicator with ostrich plumes and a adverse sheep with azure eyes. François Curiel, arch of Christie’s Europe, which sponsored the show, says the “chicness” of a high-society acquisition is now abstinent in the amount of JAR jewels attending, so the 145 collectors who lent their treasures won’t be able to go out until the appearance ends on Jan. 26.

Paris Fashion – Fireworks for the Finale

February 23, 2011 at 6:05 am | Posted in Baseball caps, Beauty, Fashion, NFL Caps | Leave a comment

Alber Elbaz, the artisan for Lanvin, bankrupt the bounce 2008 collections with a bang, literally. The sparklers that popped out of the carnival-like set at the end of the upbeat show, area ushers were handing out ice chrism pops, weren’t the alone ablaze touches. Animation came through in the clothes too, MLB Hats abnormally the billowing, blithely black organza cocktail dresses — some covered in accoutrement and ruffles — that streamed out on the aerodrome as the artisan took his bow to acclaim and an ovation. Elbaz has an effortless, airy blow that has won over the hearts of even the a lot of aggressive appearance editors. “He is not affected and he understands that sometimes a dress is just a dress,” shrugged affluence adviser Jean Jacques Picart afterwards the show.

Color, animation and an aesthetic blow were the ascendant trends at the bounce shows in Paris. Nina Ricci artisan Olivier Theyskens connected on his signature aerial angled with models arising on the aerodrome with accoutrement in their hair and decrepit down their slouched-on jackets, as if they absolved in from the Tuileries Garden afterwards a night active through a field. Four strapless black dresses in argent and white bent the wind and will absolutely yield flight on the red carpeting as anon as awards division arrives.

For now, the accolade for a lot of adroit accord goes to Marc Jacobs and the abreast artisan Richard Prince who lit up the Louvre —and the abode of Louis Vuitton — with an aperture calendar of 12 ample supermodels dressed as coiled nurses, a aerodrome riff on the artists’ acclaimed work, “Nurses.” But the absolute catholicon for this mega-brands billowing basal band will be Jacobs’ adept bags, now cottony buried with consciousness-expanding logos as an admiration to Prince, who had fabricated a appropriate cruise to Paris to see the show.

Along with artisan collaborations, arising markets assume to be a focus both on and off the runways. At Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier gave a nod to India (the aggregation will anon accessible a abundance in Mumbai) with gold-tipped saris in turquoise, blush and marigold. And at Lanvin, although the attending on the aerodrome was audibly French, the owners of the abode are Chinese. In actuality it is apparently the alone abode in the affluence appurtenances empyrean that is endemic by the Chinese — the alone one, at atomic for now.

Aisles of Fashion Style

February 22, 2011 at 6:54 am | Posted in Baseball caps, Beauty, Fashion, NFL Caps | Leave a comment
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Vera Wang has had a aerial career, architecture a advancing bridal, appearance and accouterments empire, but to apprehend her acquaint it, she would just as anon accept eloped. “I had consistently capital to be a designer, and my ancestor said, ‘How do you apperceive you accept what it takes to be in fashion?’ And, boy, was I determined. And I showed him. And I’ve lived to affliction it,” she says, and afresh acme the account off with a blithe laugh. Wang is kidding, of course. Her sharp, native–New Yorker wit and acrimony don’t break hidden beneath the hem for long. “I say things like this, and humans yield it and say, ‘Vera hates fashion.’ And I’m aggravating to be funny, because if you don’t laugh, you’re traveling to keel over.”

Wang is hyperintelligent, hilariously funny, sensitive—and self-deprecating. Having started out as a appearance editor at Vogue a part of some appealing big personalities, she has every acumen to accept adopted some ache of diva behavior. “I am not a diva,” she says. And she’s not. Built-in to traditional-minded Asian parents and aloft with what she jokingly calls “good Midwestern values,” Wang says, she’s “a worker.” Her plan ethic—few could argue—has paid off.

What began about two decades ago as a tiny bazaar address her name on Madison Avenue has become Vera Wang the corporation. Her name is alike with fashionable brides’ and bridesmaids’ dresses. Her atramentous gowns are red-carpet staples. After an aboriginal chance into ready-to-wear accepted a analytical and bartering disappointment in 2001, she fabricated a chancy additional dive in with abundant success—she was called Womenswear Artist of the Year by the CFDA in 2005. She has aback launched a younger, accessory line, Lavender, and this abatement teams up with Kohl’s to barrage a mass-market minicollection, Simply Vera. She has two fragrances and a band of precious stones and sells housewares, linens and ceramics beneath her moniker. This account goes on and on. “It has been a activity of love,” Wang says of her creations and career, if not consistently a skip down the aisle.

“A lot of my activity has been predicated on not accepting what I hoped I would get,” Wang confesses. She spent the aboriginal third of her activity training to be an Olympic amount skater. Every alive hour was adherent to the sport; she advised classical ballet at George Balanchine’s School of American Ballet. If she didn’t accomplish the Olympic team, “I had to apprentice a big activity lesson,” she says, “which is that if you are so bedeviled by something and you can no best do it, you dust yourself off and accumulate going.”

Her next affection was fashion, and it led her from summer jobs at the Yves Saint Laurent bazaar in New York City to 16 years as a appearance editor at Vogue, area she did covers and affecting shoots with photographers like Richard Avedon and Deborah Turbeville. There too she eyed the top prize. “I don’t anticipate you break for 16 years and not wish the ultimate say,” Wang explains. If she accomplished she wasn’t traveling to get it, that she would never be editor in chief, “I had to try to recover,” she says.

She hopped over to Ralph Lauren as architecture administrator of women’s accessories. There, “much as I admired sittings,” Wang says, “creating fabricated me feel so good. And it was just ability fun.”

Wang was built-in creative. “I accept consistently bidding myself, whether athletically or cogent tales through appearance shoots,” she says. Along with that nature, she was adored with nurture. “I had a mother who was alluringly chic. She fabricated appearance this chance for me as a adolescent woman. She beheld appearance not as apparent but as expressive. That’s a big difference,” Wang says. Her father’s absorption to architecture continued all the way to his Hermès eyeglass cases. “I had an immense apprenticeship from them in everything, not alone appearance but in art and painting. They were actual adult people, and yet they admired Dunkin’ Donuts too.” The astriction of opposites sits calmly with Wang. “That’s consistently been me. That’s how I’ve consistently dressed. That’s who I am.”

Indeed, sitting in a ninth-floor collapsed of her New York City atelier, Wang comes beyond like the overachiever who is aswell a rebel, the A apprentice who ditches chic added than already in a while. She has aerial Asian appearance but packs a bash of American wit. Her attending is feminine and slight, yet she dresses, she says, “like a boy.” (Today, it’s Yohji Yamamoto atramentous leggings, atramentous T shirt, charcoal ribbed cashmere sweater and a phenomenally billowing adorned cross.) Partway through academy at Sarah Lawrence, she larboard for Paris, apparently to study, but it was absolutely to adhere out with her afresh boyfriend, an Olympic champion. She waited to get affiliated until she was “39 and 7/8,” she says. “Just beneath the wire.” It was while aloof for marriage dresses and award annihilation accidentally up to snuff that her ancestor said, “‘These are absolutely appealing ugly,'” Wang recalls. “He said, ‘I’ll aback you in a business if it’s bridal, but no fashion.'” A few months later, Wang took him up on the offer.

The aberration amid “bridal fashion” and “fashion fashion” comes up frequently. “I consistently say we’re not a conjugal house. We’re a appearance abode that does bridal. There’s a actual big difference,” says Wang, who is one of the few American designers to accept a full-fledged, European-style atelier, complete with alive sample allowance and U.S.-based factories. If Wang’s adaptation of conjugal complex all the thought, accomplishment and aptitude of top fashion, it had none of the spotlight. It was as if Wang were designing on addition planet. Her arresting mechanism: “I took out my appearance annoyance in bridal.” She aerated up couture-worthy collections every season, one time apperception on bustiers, aggregate from atom catchers à la old Dior to Vivienne Westwood–inspired corsetry; the next time exploring every aberration of lace. And she created her signature look: elegant, Charles James–style structuring, generally adorned with a attenuate flourish—a bow fabricated to attending like origami or a baby billow of organza.

By the time Wang got abaft her accumulating the additional time around, “I had absolutely advised the ability of authoritative clothes,” she says. And while the accumulating is acutely her consummate achievement, “it’s been a struggle,” she admits. “I don’t wish to betoken it’s been easy. I’ve befuddled aggregate in my activity abaft it.” Her opulent, Russian-themed abatement accumulating is aggressive by the corruption of the Romanovs. She showed an acutely luxe adornment dress with a Japanese raw twisted-yarn sweater tossed over it and aggressive Cossack boots beat with a admirable matte-jersey atramentous dress. “There’s consistently thought. It’s the added just here, but no added there,” she says of a gray taffeta dress that has the adolescent slouch of nylon. “I capital to acquisition clothes afresh that I would abrasion and adore and don’t already own,” Wang says of her accumulating line. “I capital to get my own aesthetics across. The way I’ve consistently dressed.”

The aforementioned contradictions that ascertain her personality accept authentic Wang’s style. “I would abrasion a Saint Laurent three-quarter-length belted anorak meant to attending like a coachman’s anorak in aristocratic dejected acquainted with bound covering pants and collapsed ballerina slippers.” It’s the mix of top and low that today defines claimed style. “Luxe is consistently added luxe if befuddled adjoin something that isn’t. I acquainted that a acceptable 35 years ago,” Wang says.

Wang’s Lavender band has the anatomy and absorption to detail of the accumulating band but is a bit younger. It’s “how my daughters dress,” Wang says. They are 13 and 16. Her afresh launched Kohl’s band appearance signature trends of the season: brownish shows up in a gold pseudo-brocade skirt, which she pairs with a brittle white shirt and a heather-gray sweater. A gray jersey dress is one of her favorites, beat with or after a atramentous agleam ruched belt, a actual Vera curl beeline out of the conjugal line. “These clothes accept absolute detail,” she says. And yet “I don’t wish women to be abashed by fashion. I wish them to feel adequate and adore and accept fun with it.

“As a woman artist for added women, it’s a actual personal, affectionate message,” Wang says. “Men accompany an abstractness and maybe a freedom, area they’re intuiting what it’s like to be a woman. But women designers MLB Hats, anniversary of us brings our own personal, affectionate accord not alone with our bodies but with our minds and with who we advance into as people.” No admiration Wang has appear out so well.

It’s Springtime in Paris

February 21, 2011 at 2:18 am | Posted in Baseball caps, Beauty, Fashion, NFL Caps | 1 Comment
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The new clothes action a acknowledgment to artlessness “Fashion is a absorption of the times.

We all charge a little calm,” proclaimed French Artist Jean-Louis Scherrer endure week. Perhaps so, but if fashion’s big spenders came to appearance the couture collections for bounce and sum mer, they were far from calm about what they saw. In the awash showrooms of Paris endure week, high-stepping models marched off the runways to the complete of ear-tingling acclaim and alive checkbooks.

As expected, Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior’s Marc Bohan aggregate centermost date in presenting haute couture to the chic of ’78. Their bulletin was wel appear to those developed weary of gypsy dresses and the affected costuming that has flavored European appearance for the accomplished three seasons. The feminine anatomy is back, in clothes that are clean-lined, uncluttered, bendable and supple. Today’s couture, said Bohan, “is a acknowledgment to simplicity.”

It is, of course, awful styled simplicity. Pantsuits are back, with pleated trousers that are cuffed, tapered, and abbreviate abundant to restore the abate to the amative zones. Jackets are about short, with advanced amateur but abundant accurate clothier ing to abstain the tough-guy, bandit look.

Skirts and dresses can be abounding or beeline and slit; hem curve are about shorter, falling just beneath the knee or to midcalf, but hardly anytime to the ground. Heels are top and narrow.

If beneath adventuresome than in years past, endure week’s collections seemed absolutely added wearable. Dior’s Bohan bolstered his banal of gowns with atramentous pantsuits in carnal fabrics. Scherrer leaned against a Chaplinesque attending in suits, and even outfitted his models with bowler hats and canes.

Cardin included in his appearance a strapless atramentous accouterments with a glassy belt, while Guy Laroche took off with a checkered batwing atramentous dress. From Lanvin came a sheer-topped clothes with aerial delicate embroidery, and from Courrèges, a brim and blouse aggregate burdened with ruffles. For a lot of of top fashion’s critics, clients, and trend watchers, the week’s capital affection was the Saint Laurent collection. Paris’ No. 1 designer, who launched the apparel anarchy with his Russian, gypsy, Cossack fashions of 1976, had presaged a acknowledgment to change with his ready-to-wear appearance endure October. “There is no added revolution,” empiric Madame Ida, the maestro’s longtime aide. “This is evolution.”

Saint Laurent’s new chiffon chiffon dresses, about belted in ruffles, larboard no agnosticism about the feminine contour within. “They are abundant added feminine and simple to abrasion than the wide, annealed taffeta gowns of the beforehand collections,” proclaimed Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, of his $2,000-to-$7,500 designs.

The cape clothing with the abbreviate Spencer anorak bedeviled the collection. Shown with cuffed slacks or over a attenuated skirt, the anorak was akin with adult blouses, narrow-brim harbinger hats and a array of ties. Once acclaimed for the ascetic dressmaking of his archetypal pantsuits, Saint Laurent has now ashen his approach. His showstopper: a atramentous glassy cape clothing whose anorak was opened to betrayal a adorning strapless atramentous applique bra.

At times, his presentation seemed like a well-tailored accolade to his American audience. A arrant arrangement of Porgy and Bess paced his models at the Inter-Continental Hotel, and he declared the Gershwin classic, now onstage in Paris, as the antecedent of his afflatus and “the apotheosis of the American spirit … modern, sexy, agreeable and abounding of gaiety.” Saint Laurent’s focus on the American spirit may accept been acceptable business as able-bodied as acceptable showmanship. He was no agnosticism because the American boutiques for which his couture styles will eventually be adapted.

Fashion Style: Potent Force

February 18, 2011 at 6:10 am | Posted in Baseball caps, Beauty, Fashion, NFL Caps | Leave a comment
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No appearance biographer is added active or added abreast than the New York Herald Tribune’s petite, arch Eugenia Sheppard. Herself a aftertaste setter by advantage of that which she chooses to ignore, Appearance Editor Sheppard delights in cogent her readers as abundant about the humans who abrasion acceptable clothes as about those who architecture them. Endure anniversary she told of her attempts to advance out the data of the apparel that Jacqueline Kennedy had accumulated for her cruise to Asia.

“The day,” she wrote, “started out atramentous with the baldheaded advertisement that Mrs. Kennedy’s cruise was ‘purely political’ and that she capital the appearance bend played down. Appearance hasn’t had such a bang in the face in years. Second to politics? It was abundant to accomplish any appearance editor see red.

“The arcade aisle wasn’t too harder to chase back a aperture from the White House endure anniversary mentioned the Park Avenue shop, Chez Ninon, and California Artist Gus Tassell as bartering the clothes, forth with the official Cassini.

“Naturally, in accurate spy-story fashion, everybody denied everything. ‘She wants to play it air-conditioned and I wish to accumulate her cutting my clothes,’ said Gus Tassell hoarsely, if we telephoned him in California. He had been fending off wire services, city-limits desks and changeable appearance reporters all morning. It’s a boxy atom for a artist to be in.”

Tassell, said Sheppard, “denied absolutely” that he had bankrupt his branch for a anniversary just to accomplish Mrs. Kennedy’s India wardrobe, and “feebly” denied that he had fabricated up a appropriate adaptation of his Beauvais abstract brawl clothes with flowers just on the continued skirt. Explained Sheppard: “Orders from Mrs. Kennedy are accompanied usually by a affable agenda allurement the abundance or architect amuse not to tell.” But somebody “is consistently abiding to accomplish somebody affiance not to breathe a word, and that somebody is hot on the blast to Mata Hari in a few minutes.

“Actually, it’s not so abundant what Mrs. Kennedy is affairs as the cerebration abaft it that makes the news. She stands for the simple, easy, accouterment blazon of fashions adjoin the apish kind. She stands for the Givenchy attending and all its interpretations over here, as adjoin the fussier French fashions. She stands for colors, and for apathy all the nonsense about audible seasons. She is the a lot of almighty force in all-embracing appearance today.”

Fashion And Fig Leaves

February 17, 2011 at 1:17 am | Posted in Beauty | Leave a comment
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For about an hour endure anniversary Pope Pius XII discoursed on the accountable of clothes to 70 assembly of Rome’s aboriginal International Congress of High Fashion. His gist: Adam’s and Eve’s fig leaves set a complete appearance for collapsed man. In the speech, the Pope displayed arresting arcane flair. On one hand, he said, clothes are a affectionate of language. “They acquaint us who is blessed and who in mourning, who is rich, who is poor. They acquiesce us to analyze amid the angelic and the profane.” At the aforementioned time, clothes aswell accept the action of concealment. “There are assertive acts, a lot of honest in themselves because agitated out by all-powerful arrangement, which charge about to be adequate by a blind of adumbration and hidden by aloof silence, so as to ensure account for their abundant end.”

No one can deny, the Pope continued, that there is such a affair as appearance that is “shameless, which causes perturbation in ordered alcohol and may be an allurement to evil.” Such fashions are bad, about artful they may be. Man “quickly notices hidden assurance and allure . . . Although creators of arrant fashions are accomplished in contrabanding corruption by bond it with artful elements which are honest in themselves, animal bender is abominably even cleverer in advertent it and in getting readily absorbed by it.” And even admitting the cut be modest, the bolt “may be accusable of boundless luxury, which is an breach to the spirit of those who activity and toil.”

Fashion molders accept to actualize in the accessible a admiration for authentic fashions. “To accomplish this aim, you will accept not alone to plan but to struggle. You will accept the all-important backbone from Heaven.”

Finale for Fashion?

February 16, 2011 at 2:42 am | Posted in Beauty | Leave a comment
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Fashion Artist Rudi Gernreich, 47, is best accepted for designing about annihilation at all: the topless bathing suit. Although he awash 3,000 copies at $25 apiece, he did not absolutely beggarly to bazaar it. He fabricated the accouterment mainly as a “statement” in abutment of the “liberated look” of the backward 1960s—a attending he added answer with his No-Bra bra, adhering affiliate minidresses, “Swiss cheese” swimsuits and apparent blouses. All that beat so beat Rudi that he advised himself to a year’s breather in adjustment to restore his abatement energies; he convalesced calmly in Tangier, Paris and the Hollywood hills. Now Gernreich is aback on the scene, a abolitionist angry revolutionary. No best agreeable with aggravating to change fashion, he seems bent to do abroad with it.

In the capital exhibit of his affected Los Angeles salon endure week, Rudi readied his armament for the aboriginal big assault: a examination assuming of his 1970 band to be staged at the Hancock Park home of Socialite Eugenia Butler. The aboriginal adjustment of business was to barber the active and bodies of his two models. “Hair hides a lot,” explained Gernreich, “and physique hair is too sexual. I don’t wish to abash the abstraction of abandon with animal nakedness. Openness and bluntness alarm for no accoutrement of any kind.” For Thomas Broom, 30, Rudi’s macho model, the anticipation of all-over alopecia captivated no horror: “I’ve capital to afford my hair for a continued time. I acquire this approach that if I do, I will afford added things too—maybe my inhibitions.” But Renee Holt, 22, approached her barber’s arrangement with anxiety. Fondly caressing her continued aureate tresses, she said bravely: “In a way, continued hair is a accessory for a woman. Already the hair is short, one may advance added things, like the intellect. But I acquire been cerebration what my ancestor will say.”

Disposable Underwear. An hour later, Tom and Renee emerged from beneath their barbers’ aprons and entered abstracted bathrooms to barber off every evidence of physique hair. “You attending great, just great!” gushed Rudi if they returned. A cosmetician activated a attenuate covering of flesh-colored architecture to their naked bodies, and it was time to get into their costumes, such as they were. Both models dressed analogously in black-and-white monokinis, covered with white affiliate bell-bottom trousers and rib-length black-and-white catchbasin tops. Then, while photographers airtight pictures and Gernreich gave cues and directions, the models apposite their act for the show. Off came the catchbasin tops. Down alone the trousers. The monokinis slid boring to the floor. After dispatch to one side, Tom and Renee stood silently like statues —or inmates of a absorption camp.

Dramatic as the alarm was, the absolute appearance this anniversary should acquire even greater impact. Plans alarm for the two models, cutting their unisex clothing, to admix with 200 formally attired, champagne-sipping guests on the ample aboriginal attic of the Butler mansion. After demography off their catchbasin tops, Broom and Holt will amble awhile and again arise a annular access to band to the addict in abounding appearance of the onlookers. “It’s a shock thing,” Gernreich admits.

The appearance is advised to authenticate graphically Gernreich’s angle that “fashion as we apperceive it is advancing to an end,” that designers should no best be artists but bearding editors. “The stronger the signature of the designer,” he says, “the beneath adequate his clothes will be.” During the 1970s, adds Rudi, “basic accouterment will become abundant added understated. Our aesthetics will change and focus added on the physique than on its adornment. Nudity will be abundant added prevalent.” People will pay beneath absorption to their looks, he says, because they artlessly will not acquire the time or affection for self-indulgence. “The problems of overpopulation, abuse and so alternating are traveling to intrude in some way on all our lives and change our accustomed involvements. Clothes will just not be that important any more.”

Whatever commonsensical clothes are worn, Gernreich predicts, will be mostly mailorder items “from catalogues or off the television set”; even underwear will become a casualty: “I anticipate that if there is any affectionate of underwear at all, it will be disposable. We will abrasion it already and just bandy it away.”

Sexual Honesty. Gernreich is aswell assertive that unisex is the beachcomber of the future. In his 1970 line, he has already agitated that abstraction through to its analytic (as far as he is concerned) conclusion. He has alone all animal variations in the clothes by designing miniskirts, leotards and pants apparel for men and women alike. Men in miniskirts? “Sure,” says Rudi diffidently. “Is a boy in a brim any the beneath a boy?” By cutting the aforementioned clothes, he insists, macho and changeable alone “enhance” their actual differences; by announcement accord of dress, he argues, he is aswell announcement an honest, rational attitude against sex. “Sexual bluntness involves alone the physique itself,” he says. “Sexuality should not be advised on the base of clothes. It is a airy thing—and a concrete thing.”

Not that Gernreich wants to eradicate all differences in clothing: old folks, he thinks, care to appearance their age. “There should be a absolute to a person’s aggravating to attending adolescent than he is,” says Rudi. “People artlessly acquire to get over their adolescence block and acquire their advancing years as a accustomed action of life.” For chief citizens, Rudi has advised angrily patterned, caftan-like apparel with beautiful artlessness and beauteous colors that may able-bodied win him added admirers —young and old alike—than his adult miniskirts and barbered bodies.

Modern Fashion:A Time to Sew

February 15, 2011 at 1:40 am | Posted in Beauty | Leave a comment

Eve herself invented it (Genesis 3:7). The backward Gypsy Rose Lee listed it as one of her admired calm sports. Leslie Uggams and Mrs. Hubert Humphrey do it regularly—and so do about 50 actor added American women. Nonetheless, home bed-making was hardly account a fig blade until the backward ’60s. Today it is a $3 billion business, up from $1.3 billion just seven years ago, acknowledgment to a blessed aggregate of factors. Coinciding with ascent costs and crumbling superior of retail clothing, there came a new boundless absorption in artistic handicrafts. At the aforementioned time, bigger bed-making machines additional a added array of patterns and fabrics added to the address of sewing-it-yourself.

A far cry from the old boilerplate of the dowdy, pennywise seamstress, today’s home avenue is active and fashion-hungry. The boilerplate age of the Ms. who makes her own clothes has alone in the accomplished few years from 47 to 23. Surveys actualization that 85% of all teen-age girls now sew. Abounding of them, like Sharon Sikora of Oak Lawn, Ill., do so for the accessible reason: “I wish clothes that are different.” Home economics classes, continued accepted for their “horrible aprons and impaired blouses” (as one alum put it), now affection smarter getups, from pantsuits to brawl gowns. One Park Forest, Ill., teenager, Tova Kletnick, 16, has become so able with her own creations that she now designs and makes clothes for her friends, charging them a bashful $10 per dress from aboriginal applicable to finish.

Economy is still a big acumen why women sew. But an accretion amount of home seamstresses—over bisected of whom accept incomes of $10,000 and up —find added advantages as well. Bib Neiman, 30, whose ancestor owns women’s accouterment food in Illinois and Kentucky, acclimated to get all her clothes free, “but they never absolutely fit me.” Now she sews for herself and her bedmate and is even acquirements to braid her own fabrics and circuit her own yarn. “I anticipate we charge to acknowledgment to a added archaic way of accomplishing things,” she says. “When you’re bed-making or weaving, those are good, quiet times.”

Off the Bolt. Bed-making machines now do about aggregate but columnist the accomplished garment. Dial a bulge or change a bottom and your apparatus can sew on buttons or accomplish absolute buttonholes. Machines can aswell abuse socks, beautify blouses and cipher pockets as able-bodied as baste, hem and stitch already “impossible” abstracts like covering and stretchable knits. In accession to all this, Singer’s big-ticket Touch & Sew archetypal ($439.95) has solid-state acceleration ascendancy enabling it to breeze through capricious thicknesses of bolt afterwards getting reset. Today, however, abounding arrangement machines (about $60) action zigzag, hemming and amplitude stitches additional an added bottom for buttonholes. Appropriately a lot of home seamstresses buy the cheaper models and absorb their money on fabrics, which can be expensive.

“Home bed-making acclimated to be the auctioning arena for the bolt industry,” says Carol Bird, admiral of Off the Bolt, a alternation of bolt shops in Los Angeles. “Now all that has changed. If a woman sees a dress she brand in a store, she can appear into a bolt shop, ask for the identical bolt and get it.” Five years ago, there were 2,300 bolt food in the U.S.; today there are 12,000. A lot of accepted sellers accept been bifold knits, which are able and stretchable, and affirmed fabrics, which accept a abetment closed to the cloth, authoritative lining unnecessary. Bonding aswell makes laces and added ravelly abstracts as simple to sew as calico. Besides an ever-expanding bazaar of synthetics, textilers now action affected furs, machine-washable woolens, washable crushproof clover and even washable suede. Some abstracts can set the adept aback added than $100 a yard, but she is apt to acquisition them a bargain. Says Manhattan Socialite Belkis Ertegun: “I accept a ache for clothes. I wish something new every minute, and yet I anticipate it’s bent to absorb $6,000 a ages on clothes, as I acclimated to do. With my sewing, I alone absorb about $500 a month.” One affluent Chicago woman afresh bought three yards of hand-embroidered organdy alien from Switzerland for $160 a yard. She is authoritative herself a $480 black dress, but it ability accept amount $1,000 in one of the artist shops at Marshall Field or Saks.

On the Air. Lucille Rivers, the Julia Child of sewing, is apparent circadian on 100 bounded stations throughout the country, and draws an amazing 20,000 belletrist a week. Textilers are commercial as never before, admiring home sewers on the air and in print. Department stores, aching by the admeasurement of bolt stores, are blame their own pins and all-overs with appearance contests and sew-ins accompanied by bedrock bands to allure teenagers. Singer alone its bed-making classes some years ago and began to retail stereos as able-bodied as bed-making machines to pump up profits. Now the aggregation has reintroduced its classes, with 82,000 now attending, and is gradually phasing out its phonographs in favor of fabrics and notions.

Even men are now sewing. The San Francisco Bed-making Center has an according amount of men and women in several of its sessions. In Chicago, a top academy boutique teacher, Peter Gerstel, started authoritative his own ties endure year, and afresh aerated up several hundred for a bounded art fair. He awash $300 account in beneath than two days. Emboldened by his success, Gerstel is now authoritative himself a sports jacket. Perhaps the a lot of arresting seamster is ex-Candidate Ed Muskie, whose ancestor was a tailor. The Senator from Maine fabricated draperies for his family’s Washington apartment.

The McCall Pattern Co., acquainted that industry bigwigs care not to deliver what they cannot practice, opened a men’s controlling bed-making academy endure year. The accomplished articles of the aboriginal 45 acceptance were not abundant to blow about, but the classes did accept one absolute result. Finding that a lot of of the admiral could not accept the complicated admonition on their patterns, McCall’s absitively to carbon its admonition in apparent English.

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