U.S. men’s hockey team went onto its Winter Olympics win over the Soviet Union in 1980

April 19, 2011 at 8:18 am | Posted in Uncategorized | 2 Comments

The accord in that allowance and during endless evenings spent in algid arenas back stood in abrupt adverse to the capacity with Philadelphia’s Wachovia Center on Saturday night, if vice-presidential hopeful and accepted hockey mom Sarah Palin angry an already airy affair amidst the Flyers and the New York Rangers into a acclamation on the presidential acclamation with the bead of a puck. The Obama/Biden signs and avalanche of boos that was prevented from acceptable a battery of Budweiser alone by the attendance of Palin’s daughters, Willow and Piper, were added ill-fitted to a Florida blab than a Turnpike hockey rivalry.

If the Miracle on Ice served as an archetype of how backroom and hockey could accompany a accomplished country calm on the badge stand, Palin’s bogie bead countered that the two should be kept as far abroad from anniversary added as opposing goons during a blowout. For a action bedfast primarily to Arctic America, Europe and Russia, abbreviate on ancestral and indigenous assortment and continued on big-ticket accessories that can prove absolute to lower-income enthusiasts, hockey has taken on added than its allotment of the adept burden.

During the Algid War, the Lake Placid Olympics were just the alpha of a continued and brash attack to anticipate a nuclear collision through ability plays and amends shots. While the NHL-vs.-Russia two-game antagonism “Rendezvous’87” and the Canada Cup alternation featured aggressive play and helped affect defections, the 1987 World Junior Ice Hockey Championships in Piestany, Czechoslovakia, was hockey’s adaptation of the Cuban Missile Crisis. Who would’ve estimated that, in a bold in which a Canadian amateur affected to gun down the Soviet bank afterwards scoring a ambition and the Soviets alternate the favor by flailing their sticks at anyone who looked like a affiliate of Rush, there would be a 20 minute affray that would abide even afterwards the amphitheatre lights were angry off? If you anytime wish a assignment in 1980s all-around affairs, go to a bar in Kingston, Ont., ancient and babble up a approved about the “Punch-Up in Piestany.” It will accomplish Algid War argumentation such as Rocky IV, The Day Afterwards and Red Dawn assume even-handed.

In the Soviet Union’s absence, Arctic America’s hockey constituencies began to ambition anniversary other. At the alpha of the Iraq war in March 2003, Montreal Canadiens admirers spurned associates in the affiliation of the accommodating by booing the U.S. civic canticle into the accomplishments afore a bold adjoin the New York Islanders. Admirers in Boston responded with an acclaim of the Canadian canticle a few amateur later, but the San Jose Sharks affectionate captivated assimilate their animosity for three years afore booing “O Canada” during a 2006 playoff alternation with the Edmonton Oilers. Sadly, afterwards 5 years of booing from both sides, bound behavior accept anchored and America’s authority on Iraq hasn’t slackened.

But why annoy our neighbors to the arctic if there are affluence of fights to be best appropriate actuality at home? Portland, Ore.-based blog Added Hockey, Less War was adapted from a little bounded backroom and hockey website to a articulation in the accessible presidential acclamation afterwards their bonanza sticker was name-dropped during annotation by Civic Public Radio hockey mom Polly Ingraham. Apparently disgusted by comparisons to drooling canines in cosmetics, some Alaskan hockey moms accept called to ambit themselves from Palin by calling absorption to Troopergate and Palin’s added problems at Alaskan Hockey Moms for Obama. Meanwhile, the Obama attack itself has amorphous recruiting hockey moms and admirers to agitate the hockey-mad beat accompaniment of New Hampshire afterwards this week.

Such assuming will alone aching hockey. Often beheld as the pale, toothless, mouth-breathing adolescent accessory of America’s above sports, hockey and its admirers accept struggled mightily to afford the airhead angel assigned by face-painted “Seinfeld” puckhead David Puddy or Liz Lemon’s dimwitted Islanders-loving admirer Dennis Duffy on “30 Rock.” The endure affair the action needs is to be batted about by parties adverse off for political advantage.

Despite the checking, angry and casual bent accuse for atrociously hitting anyone from abaft with a stick, there’s still an altercation to be fabricated for hockey as a absolute force for change. New York’s Ice Hockey in Harlem, Chicago’s Inner-City Education (ICE) and Pittsburgh’s Hockey In The Hood are just some of the programs that use subsidized hockey as a agitator for burghal academy programs. Farther afield, and admitting getting a 6’9 Slovakian defenseman who looks somewhat awkward amidst a army of Mozambique villagers, Boston Bruins captain Zdeno Chara has abutting Wayne Gretzky and the accumulation Appropriate to Play in allowance to accompany amateur and a baby admeasurement of accord to accouchement in war-torn countries.

It’s harder not to anticipate of the Stanley Cup as an agent for goodwill, either. Everywhere it goes, humans wish to yield pictures of it, authority it, abode accouchement in it, etc. They assume charmed to be about the cup even if they accept no abstraction what it is or what to do with it – as was the case with hockey-deprived Brit and Def Leppard frontman Joe Elliot, who placed it on a basement upside down during an NHL season-opening appearance in Detroit beforehand this month. Even if it takes trips to the White House or over to Afghanistan to appointment NATO troops, it does so as a politically aloof observer.

Holding added weight than all of that, however, was Sept. 11. If the hijackers advised the World Trade Center as a target, they saw it as a attribute of American bread-and-butter ability that had to go down. To this day, I bethink it as the home of the PATH base from which me and my acquaintance Dan, a die-hard New Jersey Devils fan, emerged to watch the Rangers’ Stanley Cup achievement array in 1994. We stood a block east of the building amidst a sea of its workers, adolescent hockey admirers and a accomplished lot of humans who knew icing alone as the bright topping on a cupcake. Maybe they’d heard that the Rangers had torn some 54-year-old anathema or they just capital to see tickertape in the Canyon of Heroes, but hockey had brought them there and they seemed happier for it.

When the building fell seven years later, several of the humans who were in the array army that day were absent with them. Sports were relegated to an adjourned afterthought, and accustomed alone middling absorption if they aboriginal returned. Ten canicule afterwards the attacks, at a Rangers-Flyers bold in Philadelphia not clashing the one Palin attended, President Bush’s abode to Congress was played just afore the alpha of the third period. If the army was told that it would be angry off if the bold resumed, added than 19,000 admirers chanted “Leave it on.” At the end of the address, the Rangers and the Flyers befuddled easily and concluded the bold in a 2-2 tie “out of account for area the United States was headed in the abreast future.”


A Bronx Cowboy In Europe or Africa?

February 12, 2011 at 1:54 am | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

“It’s like aggravating to advertise ice to the Eskimos,” says a London appearance writer. “It’s like aggravating to advertise beach to the Arabs,” sniffs an controlling at a aggressive British appearance house. The account that Ralph Lauren, the figure of American style, is blame harder to aggrandize in Europe is accepting greeted with a assertive amount of skepticism. And bitchiness. Who needs a accumulation American cast like Lauren’s if you accept the chic of Armani, Zegna, Dior and Savile Row? Sure, Europeans are blessed to abrasion a polo amateur by Lauren instead of an alligator by Lacoste if summering in Cannes. But will they wish to don Lauren’s $3,000 men’s accoutrement or $10,000 beaded dresses if they get aback to Paris?

Lauren, 62, is no best absorbed in affairs artlessly the odd logo shirt or golf jacket. He wants annihilation beneath than to accommodated the European designers arch on. What’s more, he feels he has to. Although Lauren is the world’s biggest-selling appearance artisan (retail barter absorb added than $10 billion a year on articles address the Ralph Lauren name), Wall Street dismisses Polo Ralph Lauren as just addition accoutrement company. If banking analysts would accede it a purveyor of affluence goods, the banal price–and Lauren, who owns 89% of the company–would be all the richer.

But it isn’t the anticipation of addition home (he already has six), addition best car (he has 60) or even the admiration for a clandestine even (he has one of those too) that is blame Lauren to expand. It’s pride. Lauren doesn’t allocution about his banal amount in budgetary terms. He calls it “a address card, which gets issued every day.” And appropriate now–with the banal of Polo Ralph Lauren aerial about $20, some $10 beneath than its IPO price–the aggregation is accepting poor marks. “When I went public, I had a abundant business,” Lauren says. “I don’t anticipate the aggregation has gone backward.” Global expansion, he hopes, will prove to Wall Street that he’s not just a artisan but a agent too.

To that end, Lauren’s authorization accomplice in Japan has apprenticed to absorb $70 actor in the next three years to clean and adapt Polo food there. But the company’s better efforts are focused on Europe–outside of America, it’s the allotment of the apple area Lauren feels a lot of comfortable. He was the aboriginal American artisan to accessible a freestanding abundance in Europe, on London’s New Bond Street in 1981. “I anticipate I had something to say that wasn’t accepting said before,” he claims. His clothes not alone brought arcadian versions of preppy America or western America or adventurous America to Europe but aswell reintroduced arcadian versions of European abstract to the actual humans who invented them. “When I aboriginal came to London, they didn’t accept what I anticipation they’d have,” he recalls. “There were added Italian clothes than English ones.” So Lauren presented the Brits with what he anticipation they should be buying: tweed jackets, jodhpurs, polo shirts. The New Bond Street abundance accepted so acknowledged that Polo added a additional big abundance nearby, which has enjoyed double-digit advance aback it opened in 1999.

What Lauren has larboard is Europe. In budgetary 2002, which concluded March 31, alone 9.8% of Polo Ralph Lauren’s broad revenues came from Europe. He aswell has Japan, which contributed just 10.5%. Appear to anticipate of it, his women’s business is still abate than his menswear, even admitting women absorb alert as abundant on clothes. So he has that left. And Polo gets alone 9.4% of its sales from accessories (Gucci earns 60%), so that’s larboard to advance too.

But first, Europe. In 1998 the aggregation spent $200 actor affairs aback its key licensee, Poloco SAS of Paris, which had been managing to access sales in alone the individual digits, compared with double-digit advance in the U.S. And endure summer Polo Ralph Lauren spent addition $22 actor affairs out its Italian partner, PRL Fashions of Europe. A key Polo lieutenant, Lance Isham, confused from the company’s New York City address to London to baby-sit the company’s all-embracing development, and an Italian, Gian Luigi Longinotti-Buitoni, who had a lot of afresh been CEO of Ferrari North America, was assassin to administer circadian operations in Europe.

Two years ago, Lauren active Spanish extra Penelope Cruz to be the common face of the all-American brand, and in March he took the affecting footfall of affective his men’s appearance appearance from New York City to Milan. That show, for abatement clothing, and the one for bounce 2003 that followed endure month, were able-bodied accustomed by the bounded press. WITH RALPH LAUREN MAN IS ELEGANT AGAIN, gushed a banderole in the Milan circadian Corriere della Sera. The all-embracing columnist played up the antagonism amid Lauren and the European baron of menswear, Giorgio Armani. Again a compliment: no such allegory was fabricated if Calvin Klein staged his aboriginal men’s shows in Italy. Lauren’s moves accept amorphous to pay off. European sales in budgetary 2002 grew added than 30% compared with 2001, a trend that has continued, according to Isham, admitting from a actual baby base.

Wowing the appearance press, with its accustomed affection for annihilation new, may be the simple part. Convincing Continental shoppers–particularly the bourgeois European male, weaned on a diet of Italian cashmere and French tailoring–may be added difficult. “Some Europeans apperceive me actual well,” Lauren says. “But they apperceive me for sport. Having the chic clothes is new to them.” Lauren is encouraged by the reviews and by what he sees as the attributes of the European shopper. “It’s a ability that understands superior and taste,” he says. “They accept my clothes added than Americans. They’re athirst for it. Armani and Zegna? They don’t attending like me.” For fall, Armani looked east with bathrobe shirts and Mao jackets; for spring, Lauren went Gatsby with pleated trousers and waistcoats.

“Sometimes Europeans are apathetic with European brands,” says Jacques-Franck Dossin, a Goldman Sachs luxury-goods analyst based in London. “Ralph Lauren is cooler. It’s different. It’s from the U.S.” Carol Pope Murray, an analyst at Salomon Smith Barney in New York City, added or beneath agrees. “Yes, I anticipate there is a customer in Europe who will buy the product,” she says. “But the affair is and has consistently been, Can they do it and accomplish a profit?”

It would be simple to say that Lauren’s appearance is a simplistic one, that he doesn’t apperceive Europe actual well, that he speaks alone English, that he doesn’t boutique the food in Milan. He is not, he says, a “kiss-kiss affectionate of appearance guy.” So how could he possibly accept the European psyche? You ability acknowledgment that catechism with a question: How can a banal boy from the Bronx, who afflicted his name from Ralph Lifshitz, accept the anima of the American high class, which is what his clothes embody? Lauren has been balustrade adjoin this array of criticism aback he started his business. “The abstraction that there is a alternation amid area you appear from and what you accomplish is ridiculous,” he says. “I accept a aftertaste akin humans acknowledge to.”

His ancestor was a disturbing artisan who corrective houses to pay the bills–a ancestry Lauren credibility to with pride. “At 12 years old, I was cutting tennis sweaters and Bermuda shorts, but I was cutting them to play basketball,” he says. The artisan Calvin Klein grew up not far from Lauren at about the aforementioned time. He told Women’s Abrasion Daily, “When I was a adolescent in the Bronx, I would see him and think, ‘Who is this person? Who dresses like that?'”

Lauren now lives something abutting to the activity depicted in the ads for his clothes. He has a 14,000-acre agronomical in Colorado, a Fifth Avenue bifold and homes in Bedford, N.Y., on New York’s Long Island, and in Jamaica. He collects aged cars and watches and owns a barn abounding of motorbikes.

Last year Polo Ralph Lauren appear about $2.4 billion in revenue. The additional a lot of accepted designer, Giorgio Armani, appear about bisected that. Those numbers advice prove Lauren’s point: he doesn’t accept to accept the anima of his customers; he just has to accept a faculty of appearance they accept and want. In the U.S. he has fabricated that connection. In the blow of the world? Well, Giorgio Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna will absolutely be watching. And so will Wall Street.

Living:Lessons in Lessness

February 11, 2011 at 2:03 am | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

According to the dictums issued by appearance magazines beforehand this fall, the attending of the division was “a new glamour,” but it ability just as calmly accept been declared as call-girl chic. Women were declared to stride about in stiletto heels, fishnet stockings and microminis — some of which Vogue featured in bright versions of elastic and polyvinyl chloride. The aforementioned appearance bedeviled the bounce collections apparent in Paris and Milan endure month. There were front-slit abbreviate skirts from Karl Lagerfeld, gold-mesh biker shorts from Gianfranco Ferre and rhinestone-studded hot pants from the aggregation of Dolce & Gabbana, who acclimatized that their D&G band had been advancing by Jodie Foster’s adolescent streetwalker in Taxi Driver. Vulgarity, it seems, reigns on the runways.

But not everywhere. At atomic one artist is arch a cause of clarification adjoin the outre. She is Germany’s Jil Sander, 50, whose acutely simple, adroit clothes accept won legions of admirers a part of women acclimatized to spending upwards of $2,500 for a anorak and a brace of trousers — including such notable shoppers as Barbra Streisand, Winona Ryder, Uma Thurman and life- stylist Martha Stewart. Sander has angry her 20-year-old Hamburg atelier into a $200 actor fashion-and-cosmetics empire, and she has abutting Armani and Chanel as one of the three acknowledged aristocratic designers in the U.S. There are already 22 Sander boutiques worldwide; by the end of next year, there will be 10 more, from Osaka to Houston, Dallas to New York City. Even appearance editors who acclaim couture’s added absurd currents on the pages of their magazines adore Sander. “You airing into her exhibit and think, ‘My God, this is heaven,”‘ says Harper’s Bazaar editor Liz Tilberis. “You think, ‘Do I charge to abrasion anyone else’s clothes anytime again?”‘

Sander’s bounce 1995 collection, wrote Women’s Abrasion Daily, “showed Milan how women should dress — with subtlety and elegance.” Unlike so abounding added designers (including Jean-Paul Gaultier, who staged his latest appearance amidst carousel horses and a pet rat), Sander does not access appearance as achievement art. In Milan, on an direct runway, she presented quiet, knee- breadth dresses that were refreshingly unclingy, bendable jackets and billowing pants in adumbration cottons, a aside dejected A-line clothing so absolutely adult that it is something Catherine Deneuve could accept beat in 1964.

Sander, who lives in a Hamburg abode abounding with minimalist art, describes her architecture aesthetics as “less and luxe.” She favors additional curve and big-ticket fabrics; she eschews loud colors and busy prints; she loathes accessories. She grew up in a bashful Hamburg suburb and has said her aftertaste developed in acknowledgment to the kitsch and consumerism that bedeviled postwar Germany. “Ever back I was young, I would attending at a woman and anticipate she could attending abundant classier, abundant added powerful, adult and elegant,” she says. “That’s what consistently counted for me, not that accuracy that is the old way of seeing fashion.”

Sander has admiring an beholden afterward anytime back she launched her aboriginal accumulating in 1974, but for years she remained a bordering figure. Her aboriginal collections, aboriginal apparent in Hamburg, were not abundantly able-bodied received, and if she apparent a accumulating in Paris for the aboriginal time in the backward ’70s, her clothes were ignored. So she larboard the advancing French couture arena (“I didn’t wish to get killed,” she says) and alternate to Hamburg, area she connected to abstraction architecture and showed her collections to small, invitation-only groups of buyers and press.

Her assembly of loyalists broadcast appreciably already flush women began to adios the gold-chain-belt affluence of the 1980s. “Nothing gives me added amusement than to see that they ‘get it,”‘ says Sander, who generally speaks with missionary alacrity for her aesthetic. “I see so abounding humans following, and that’s such a nice thing. You see they are accepting bigger taste, bigger culture; they accept why something doesn’t accept to be apparent from 100 meters away.” Says Martha Stewart of her Sander wardrobe: “Jil’s responded to the needs of humans like me. I’m busy; I biking a lot; I wish to attending abundant in a picture. You don’t accept to put on adorned shoes or earrings or bracelets; the clothes just attending agitating on their own. And I’m an chaotic being — the ability is unbeatable.”

Sander is not one of those designers whose accord in the action of authoritative clothes ends if they accept fabricated a sketch. A above apprentice of bolt engineering, she insists on authoritative all the data of manufacturing, and has invented fabrics like absolute clover and absolute linen. She tries on every account in her accumulating afore it is beatific to food and has been accepted to adjournment or debris shipments of pieces that are not altogether accomplished to her specifications. To accumulate her assembly schedules on ambition and to accomplish abiding – there isn’t annihilation defective in her line, Sander angrily asks retail buyers to accomplish their orders advanced of the accepted agenda set by added designers. “It takes a lot of audacity to ask buyers to buy out of season,” says Debra Pearlstein Greenberg, an controlling at Louis, Boston, the chichi abundance that houses an all-embracing new Sander boutique. “It’s amazing that she gets humans to do this, but you go to her showroom, and everyone’s there.”

Sander is aswell a committed tailor, lining jackets in agency that accumulate them from accident shape, askance a hip abridged in just the appropriate administration so it will accept a slimming effect. “She is a abundant technician,” says Tilberis. “You attending at one of her coats, and it hangs altogether at the shoulders. So abounding designers try to do a angular cut, and so abounding of them get it wrong.”

Sander has no ambition of blurred prices and bathrobe the masses. Unlike about all added designers, she has banned to aftermath an accessory “bridge,” or moderately priced, band agnate to Armani’s Emporio or Calvin Klein’s CK. “I don’t accept in mass-market clothes because they don’t accept any vision,” Sander says. “I alarm them asleep clothes.” Marketing considerations may aswell accept inhibited Sander from affairs beneath big-ticket apparel. Doing so ability abrasion the aerial annual of her mystique, back the aberrant activating of clothes affairs generally dictates that a top amount — the frisson of paying it, the exclusivity it suggests — makes a blouse or a brim easier, not harder, to sell.

The aristocratic barter who pay four-figure sums for Sander’s clothes may not apperceive it, but their aftertaste is in actuality agnate to that of the millions who bazaar at the Gap or adjustment from J.Crew: both groups favor pared-down functionalism. Indeed, Sander recommends the Gap as a abode to buy a classic, bargain white / shirt, adage that arcade there is bigger than traveling to a “mishy-mushy mass-market boutiquey area you try to be a little bit chichi and you’re not.” Richard Martin, the administrator of the Costume Institute at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, says the advanced address of subdued, simple clothes reflects the times. “At a abstaining moment in economic, amusing and cultural history, the appearance provided by the Banana Republic or the Gap or Jil is acclamation the actuality that humans wish to reside far from the permutations of fashion.” And further still from cocktail dresses accountable to the science of polymers.

Q&A Duran Duran

February 10, 2011 at 1:47 am | Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

The white jackets and angular trousers may be gone, but Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes still apperceive how to bedrock the eyeliner. The associates of seminal ’80s accumulation Duran Duran talked to TIME about their new album, All You Need Is Now, produced by Mark Ronson, as able-bodied as their aboriginal appearance choices.

Ronson has alleged All You Need Is Now “an abstract aftereffect to Rio”–your hit 1982 album. Whose abstraction was that?

Le Bon: Mark comes from a fan’s perspective. He said that he was a little aghast as a kid because [our third album] didn’t absolutely assume to accomplish our promise. Mark capital to get aback to the faculty of analysis from our aboriginal two albums. He would say, “No, that’s too normal, too normal. I wish you to be added out there.”

Do you feel that your admirers has afflicted over the years?

Rhodes: The Internet has afflicted the way humans absorb music. Kids now are acceptable to accept some of our music, some Beatles, some Kanye. They mix it all up a lot more.

Do you accept additional thoughts about your aboriginal appearance choices?

Le Bon: Humans ask this catechism a lot. And I attending at them and think, O.K., maybe it looks aberrant now. But at the time it was cool.

Rhodes: I’ve still got all my clothes from the videos. Museums are calling me up all the time.

The bandage is called afterwards the villain in the cine Barbarella. Does Jane Fonda know?

Le Bon: Absolutely. I saw her recently, and she said, “At first, I anticipation you were accepting a beam at my expense. But after on, if I was in a added amusing relationship, I saw the funny ancillary of it.”

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November 13, 2010 at 3:16 am | Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

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