It’s Springtime in Paris

February 21, 2011 at 2:18 am | Posted in Baseball caps, Beauty, Fashion, NFL Caps | 1 Comment
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The new clothes action a acknowledgment to artlessness “Fashion is a absorption of the times.

We all charge a little calm,” proclaimed French Artist Jean-Louis Scherrer endure week. Perhaps so, but if fashion’s big spenders came to appearance the couture collections for bounce and sum mer, they were far from calm about what they saw. In the awash showrooms of Paris endure week, high-stepping models marched off the runways to the complete of ear-tingling acclaim and alive checkbooks.

As expected, Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior’s Marc Bohan aggregate centermost date in presenting haute couture to the chic of ’78. Their bulletin was wel appear to those developed weary of gypsy dresses and the affected costuming that has flavored European appearance for the accomplished three seasons. The feminine anatomy is back, in clothes that are clean-lined, uncluttered, bendable and supple. Today’s couture, said Bohan, “is a acknowledgment to simplicity.”

It is, of course, awful styled simplicity. Pantsuits are back, with pleated trousers that are cuffed, tapered, and abbreviate abundant to restore the abate to the amative zones. Jackets are about short, with advanced amateur but abundant accurate clothier ing to abstain the tough-guy, bandit look.

Skirts and dresses can be abounding or beeline and slit; hem curve are about shorter, falling just beneath the knee or to midcalf, but hardly anytime to the ground. Heels are top and narrow.

If beneath adventuresome than in years past, endure week’s collections seemed absolutely added wearable. Dior’s Bohan bolstered his banal of gowns with atramentous pantsuits in carnal fabrics. Scherrer leaned against a Chaplinesque attending in suits, and even outfitted his models with bowler hats and canes.

Cardin included in his appearance a strapless atramentous accouterments with a glassy belt, while Guy Laroche took off with a checkered batwing atramentous dress. From Lanvin came a sheer-topped clothes with aerial delicate embroidery, and from Courrèges, a brim and blouse aggregate burdened with ruffles. For a lot of of top fashion’s critics, clients, and trend watchers, the week’s capital affection was the Saint Laurent collection. Paris’ No. 1 designer, who launched the apparel anarchy with his Russian, gypsy, Cossack fashions of 1976, had presaged a acknowledgment to change with his ready-to-wear appearance endure October. “There is no added revolution,” empiric Madame Ida, the maestro’s longtime aide. “This is evolution.”

Saint Laurent’s new chiffon chiffon dresses, about belted in ruffles, larboard no agnosticism about the feminine contour within. “They are abundant added feminine and simple to abrasion than the wide, annealed taffeta gowns of the beforehand collections,” proclaimed Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, of his $2,000-to-$7,500 designs.

The cape clothing with the abbreviate Spencer anorak bedeviled the collection. Shown with cuffed slacks or over a attenuated skirt, the anorak was akin with adult blouses, narrow-brim harbinger hats and a array of ties. Once acclaimed for the ascetic dressmaking of his archetypal pantsuits, Saint Laurent has now ashen his approach. His showstopper: a atramentous glassy cape clothing whose anorak was opened to betrayal a adorning strapless atramentous applique bra.

At times, his presentation seemed like a well-tailored accolade to his American audience. A arrant arrangement of Porgy and Bess paced his models at the Inter-Continental Hotel, and he declared the Gershwin classic, now onstage in Paris, as the antecedent of his afflatus and “the apotheosis of the American spirit … modern, sexy, agreeable and abounding of gaiety.” Saint Laurent’s focus on the American spirit may accept been acceptable business as able-bodied as acceptable showmanship. He was no agnosticism because the American boutiques for which his couture styles will eventually be adapted.


Finale for Fashion?

February 16, 2011 at 2:42 am | Posted in Beauty | Leave a comment
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Fashion Artist Rudi Gernreich, 47, is best accepted for designing about annihilation at all: the topless bathing suit. Although he awash 3,000 copies at $25 apiece, he did not absolutely beggarly to bazaar it. He fabricated the accouterment mainly as a “statement” in abutment of the “liberated look” of the backward 1960s—a attending he added answer with his No-Bra bra, adhering affiliate minidresses, “Swiss cheese” swimsuits and apparent blouses. All that beat so beat Rudi that he advised himself to a year’s breather in adjustment to restore his abatement energies; he convalesced calmly in Tangier, Paris and the Hollywood hills. Now Gernreich is aback on the scene, a abolitionist angry revolutionary. No best agreeable with aggravating to change fashion, he seems bent to do abroad with it.

In the capital exhibit of his affected Los Angeles salon endure week, Rudi readied his armament for the aboriginal big assault: a examination assuming of his 1970 band to be staged at the Hancock Park home of Socialite Eugenia Butler. The aboriginal adjustment of business was to barber the active and bodies of his two models. “Hair hides a lot,” explained Gernreich, “and physique hair is too sexual. I don’t wish to abash the abstraction of abandon with animal nakedness. Openness and bluntness alarm for no accoutrement of any kind.” For Thomas Broom, 30, Rudi’s macho model, the anticipation of all-over alopecia captivated no horror: “I’ve capital to afford my hair for a continued time. I acquire this approach that if I do, I will afford added things too—maybe my inhibitions.” But Renee Holt, 22, approached her barber’s arrangement with anxiety. Fondly caressing her continued aureate tresses, she said bravely: “In a way, continued hair is a accessory for a woman. Already the hair is short, one may advance added things, like the intellect. But I acquire been cerebration what my ancestor will say.”

Disposable Underwear. An hour later, Tom and Renee emerged from beneath their barbers’ aprons and entered abstracted bathrooms to barber off every evidence of physique hair. “You attending great, just great!” gushed Rudi if they returned. A cosmetician activated a attenuate covering of flesh-colored architecture to their naked bodies, and it was time to get into their costumes, such as they were. Both models dressed analogously in black-and-white monokinis, covered with white affiliate bell-bottom trousers and rib-length black-and-white catchbasin tops. Then, while photographers airtight pictures and Gernreich gave cues and directions, the models apposite their act for the show. Off came the catchbasin tops. Down alone the trousers. The monokinis slid boring to the floor. After dispatch to one side, Tom and Renee stood silently like statues —or inmates of a absorption camp.

Dramatic as the alarm was, the absolute appearance this anniversary should acquire even greater impact. Plans alarm for the two models, cutting their unisex clothing, to admix with 200 formally attired, champagne-sipping guests on the ample aboriginal attic of the Butler mansion. After demography off their catchbasin tops, Broom and Holt will amble awhile and again arise a annular access to band to the addict in abounding appearance of the onlookers. “It’s a shock thing,” Gernreich admits.

The appearance is advised to authenticate graphically Gernreich’s angle that “fashion as we apperceive it is advancing to an end,” that designers should no best be artists but bearding editors. “The stronger the signature of the designer,” he says, “the beneath adequate his clothes will be.” During the 1970s, adds Rudi, “basic accouterment will become abundant added understated. Our aesthetics will change and focus added on the physique than on its adornment. Nudity will be abundant added prevalent.” People will pay beneath absorption to their looks, he says, because they artlessly will not acquire the time or affection for self-indulgence. “The problems of overpopulation, abuse and so alternating are traveling to intrude in some way on all our lives and change our accustomed involvements. Clothes will just not be that important any more.”

Whatever commonsensical clothes are worn, Gernreich predicts, will be mostly mailorder items “from catalogues or off the television set”; even underwear will become a casualty: “I anticipate that if there is any affectionate of underwear at all, it will be disposable. We will abrasion it already and just bandy it away.”

Sexual Honesty. Gernreich is aswell assertive that unisex is the beachcomber of the future. In his 1970 line, he has already agitated that abstraction through to its analytic (as far as he is concerned) conclusion. He has alone all animal variations in the clothes by designing miniskirts, leotards and pants apparel for men and women alike. Men in miniskirts? “Sure,” says Rudi diffidently. “Is a boy in a brim any the beneath a boy?” By cutting the aforementioned clothes, he insists, macho and changeable alone “enhance” their actual differences; by announcement accord of dress, he argues, he is aswell announcement an honest, rational attitude against sex. “Sexual bluntness involves alone the physique itself,” he says. “Sexuality should not be advised on the base of clothes. It is a airy thing—and a concrete thing.”

Not that Gernreich wants to eradicate all differences in clothing: old folks, he thinks, care to appearance their age. “There should be a absolute to a person’s aggravating to attending adolescent than he is,” says Rudi. “People artlessly acquire to get over their adolescence block and acquire their advancing years as a accustomed action of life.” For chief citizens, Rudi has advised angrily patterned, caftan-like apparel with beautiful artlessness and beauteous colors that may able-bodied win him added admirers —young and old alike—than his adult miniskirts and barbered bodies.

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